📖 Glossary
Clothing Manufacturing Glossary
100+ industry terms every brand needs to know | By Sanchuan Apparel
Most Important Terms
GSM (Grams per Square Meter)
Definition: Measures fabric weight. Higher GSM = heavier, thicker fabric.
Examples: Lightweight t-shirt: 140-180 GSM, Standard: 180-220 GSM, Heavyweight: 220-280+ GSM
MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)
Definition: Smallest number of units a factory will produce per style.
Examples: Low MOQ: 50-100 pcs, Standard: 100-300 pcs, High volume: 500+ pcs
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level)
Definition: Statistical standard for quality inspections. AQL 2.5 = max 2.5% defects acceptable.
Standards: Critical: AQL 0, Major: AQL 2.5, Minor: AQL 4.0
Tech Pack
Definition: Complete specification document with measurements, materials, construction details.
Includes: Flat drawings, spec sheet, BOM, colorways, construction notes
Complete A-Z Glossary
A
Appliqué: Fabric decoration sewn onto garment surface.
AQL: Acceptable Quality Level - standard for quality inspections.
Armhole: Opening where sleeve attaches to body.
B
Bar Tack: Reinforced stitching at stress points (pockets, fly).
BOM (Bill of Materials): List of all materials used in production.
Binding: Narrow fabric strip finishing edges.
Blanket Stitch: Decorative edge stitch preventing fraying.
BSCI: Business Social Compliance Initiative - ethical manufacturing certification.
Brushed Fabric: Fabric with brushed surface for softness (fleece).
C
CAD (Computer-Aided Design): Digital design software for patterns.
Care Label: Tag with washing/care instructions.
Coverstitch: Stretch stitch for hems on knit garments.
CMT (Cut, Make, Trim): Manufacturing service where buyer provides materials.
Color Fastness: Fabric's resistance to fading.
Compaction: Pre-shrinking fabric to reduce shrinkage.
Cross Grain: Fabric direction perpendicular to selvage.
D
Denier: Unit measuring fiber thickness.
DPI (During Production Inspection): QC when 10-30% production complete.
Drop Shoulder: Sleeve extending beyond shoulder seam.
DTG (Direct to Garment): Digital printing directly onto fabric.
Dye Lot: Batch of fabric dyed together - may have color variation.
E
Elasticity: Fabric's ability to stretch and recover.
Embroidery: Decorative stitching using needle and thread.
End-to-End: Print matching across seams.
EPA: Environmental Protection Agency standards.
F
Face: Front/outside of fabric.
Flatlock: Flat seam construction for activewear.
Fleece: Brushed fabric with soft, warm surface.
French Terry: Knit fabric with loops on inside.
FOB (Free on Board): Price includes delivery to port.
G
Grading: Scaling pattern to different sizes.
Grain: Direction of fabric weave.
GRS: Global Recycled Standard certification.
GSM: Grams per Square Meter - fabric weight measurement.
GOTS: Global Organic Textile Standard certification.
H
Hand: How fabric feels to touch.
Hang Tag: Attached label with brand/price info.
Heat Transfer: Printing method using heat-activated transfers.
HPS (High Point Shoulder): Reference point for measurements.
I
Interlining: Layer between outer fabric and lining.
Interlock: Double knit fabric - smooth both sides.
J
Jersey: Single knit fabric, smooth one side, loops other.
K
Knit: Fabric made by interlocking loops of yarn.
L
Lead Time: Time from order to delivery.
Lycra: Brand name for spandex/elastane.
Label: Brand/size/care tags attached to garment.
M
Marker: Pattern layout for cutting - maximizes fabric usage.
Measurement Chart: Specifications for each size.
Mockup: Sample or prototype of design.
MOQ: Minimum Order Quantity.
N
Neck Tape: Fabric strip covering shoulder seams inside neck.
Nylon: Synthetic fiber known for strength and elasticity.
O
OEKO-TEX: Certification for harmful substance testing.
OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer - custom manufacturing.
ODM: Original Design Manufacturer - factory designs.
Overlock: Stitch finishing seam edges.
P
Pantone: Color matching system standard.
Pattern: Template for cutting fabric pieces.
Pilling: Small fabric balls on surface.
Polyester: Synthetic fiber, durable and wrinkle-resistant.
Pre-production Sample: Final sample before bulk production.
PSI: Pre-Shipment Inspection - final QC check.
Q
QC (Quality Control): Inspection process for quality assurance.
Quilting: Two layers of fabric with padding between.
R
Rib: Stretchy knit fabric used for cuffs and collars.
Ribbing: Elastic knit used for necklines, cuffs, hems.
rPET: Recycled polyethylene terephthalate - recycled polyester.
S
Sample: Prototype garment for approval.
Screen Print: Printing using mesh screens and ink.
Seam: Join where two fabric pieces are sewn together.
Seam Allowance: Fabric between seam and edge.
Shrinkage: Fabric contraction after washing.
Spandex: Synthetic fiber known for elasticity (Lycra).
Sublimation: Printing method for polyester fabrics.
T
Tech Pack: Complete specification document.
Tolerance: Acceptable measurement variation.
Topstitch: Decorative stitching visible on outside.
Trims: Non-fabric components (buttons, zippers, labels).
W
Warp: Lengthwise yarns in woven fabric.
Weft: Crosswise yarns in woven fabric.
Woven: Fabric made by weaving yarns.
Y
YKK: Leading zipper brand - quality standard.
Yardage: Amount of fabric measured in yards.
FAQ
What does GSM mean in clothing?
GSM (Grams per Square Meter) measures fabric weight. Higher GSM = heavier, thicker fabric. T-shirts: 140-280 GSM, Hoodies: 260-450 GSM, Premium hoodies use 350+ GSM. GSM affects quality perception, warmth, and durability.
What is AQL in quality control?
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is the standard for quality inspections. AQL 2.5 means max 2.5% defective is acceptable. Standard clothing uses AQL 2.5 for major defects, AQL 4.0 for minor. AQL 0 means zero defects allowed (critical items).
What does MOQ mean?
MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity) is the smallest order a factory will accept. Typical MOQ: T-shirts 50-300 pcs, Hoodies 100-500 pcs. Lower MOQ = higher unit cost. MOQ exists due to fabric minimums, setup costs, and production efficiency.
Questions about manufacturing terms?
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